BVI Travel Tips
 
By Lynn McKamey (ScubaMom)
 
 
One of the most asked questions is 
"What do I pack and wear during our island vacation?"

It depends on where you are staying, but everything for a week long vacation should easily fit in 2 carry-on bags per person - 1 suitcase for the overhead bin and 1 soft duffle or backpack "personal item" that can fit under your airplane seat. 

If you have chartered a yacht, then pack only duffles or soft-side luggage since hard-side luggage won't fit in the nooks and crannies of a sailboat. 

Why not use large suitcases and check them?  Well, you can, but luggage doesn't always arrive in the islands when you do!  If you must check some luggage, then BE SURE to carry on at least one suitcase with enough to get you by a day or two - toiletry articles, swimsuit & T-shirt for the day, and a set of clothes for dinner.  I've seen far too many vacationers arrive who checked all their luggage and had nothing to wear except the clothes on their backs for the first day or two! 

Most of the places to stay or dine fall into one of two categories: 

* casual resorts, hotels, and restaurants 
Swimsuits, shorts, and T-shirts are usually fine during the day, although most women wear a cover-up and men put a T-shirt over their swimsuits when in public areas or eating breakfast and lunch.  In the evening, a nice pair of shorts and a T-shirt are acceptable. 

* upscale resorts or restaurants with a dress code, such as Biras Creek, Little Dix, Guana Island, and Peter Island. 
During the day, the same as the casual resorts will do: Swimsuits, shorts, and T-shirts, with sandals are fine.  Woman should wear a swimsuit cover-up and men should put on a T-shirt over their swim trunks when in public areas or eating breakfast and lunch. 

In the evening, "resort wear" or "smart casual" attire is worn: ladies wear sun dresses, tops with long pants; men wear slacks, such as dockers, and collared sport shirts.  Very few resorts, and none in the BVI, require coat and tie in the warm tropics anymore. 
 

Albert Wheatley of Peter Island and ScubaMom
wear examples of island evening clothes.
 
Some resorts do not allow men to wear beach sandals at night, although my husband usually wears his tennis shoes.  I wear Reef Sandals.  Ladies, leave your high heels and high-fashion footwear at home.  They might sink into sandy roads or be difficult to walk up and down some hills on the way to dinner. 
 
How does one fit a week's worth of 
clothes in a couple of carry-ons? 
Here's what we do:

Generally, we stay at resorts with a dress code, so... 

We both wear long pants and shirts plus our "dinner shoes" on the plane going down. 

In one suit case, I pack 1 pair of slacks plus 3 nice polo shirts for Kenny which he can wear for dinner during our stay (plus the ones he's wearing on the plane).  If anything gets spotted, I'll wash it.  Add two or three bathing suits and/or shorts and three T-shirts, a pair of beach or watersports shoes, underwear, and socks.  If his snorkel and mask don't fit in the suitcase, then they will go in the small soft carry-on (personal bag) along with his shaving kit. 

For me, I pack almost the same thing plus a small hairdryer if the accommodations do not provide one.  We always take a couple small bottles of shampoo too. 

If you are staying at a place with no dress code, then substitute nice pairs of shorts and T-shirts for the dresses, pants, and collared shirts. 

Throw in a small can of bug spray - we seldom see bugs in the islands, but it's handy to have just in case. 

During the winter months, evenings can be cool if a breeze is blowing, so you might want to take a very lightweight jacket or long sleeve shirt - wear it on the plane going down. 

I always take an empty, medium sized soft duffle bag (rolled up and stuffed in the side of our roll-on suitcase) in the event we purchase lots of "stuff" in the islands, like gift T-shirts and trinkets for the family.  For our return home, our dirty clothes go into the duffle to be checked on the airlines, and the new things go into the suitcases. 
 
If you must check a bag, pack all the "extras" in it that didn't fit into your carry-ons, like extra tshirts, swim wear, or things you won't need for a day or two on your vacation. 

NOTE: IF you check luggage on your way to the islands, put a large mailing label on the side of each suitcase or wrap around duffle bag handles (use wide clear tape to wrap around duffle handles to seal and waterproof it - also clear tape over the suitcase labels to firmly secure it) and include the following information: 
 
  1. Your name, date of flight, and flight numbers.  
  2. Your resort or hotel destination with its phone number.  
 
IF your luggage doesn't make all the connections that you do, airline employees will be able to read the tags and quickly route it along its way.  We've been doing this for over 10 years and our checked luggage always arrived when we did. 
 

What's the weather like?
  
Absolutely delightful, of course!  

Constant trade winds provide a pleasant year around climate.  Land and water temperature in the evenings can vary from 76 degrees in January/February to 84 degrees in August/September.  Highs vary from high 80s in the winter months to mid 90s in the summer.  Rainfall averages less than 50" annually, with most short tropical showers occurring during the  hurricane season from mid-July to mid-November.  Diving and snorkeling visibility averages 100', but can drop to 60' in the warm summer months, or  reach almost 200' in the winter and spring months.  

St. Thomas USVI is only an hours ferry ride away and you can click the image below for current weather in the "Virgin Islands". 
  

 Click for Saint Thomas, Virgin Islands Forecast
 
When should we go?
 
Obviously, the winter months (from the week before Christmas to Easter) are the busiest season since many vacationers are escaping cold weather to enjoy warm Caribbean temperatures.  The accommodation rates are highest during this time too - don't head for the islands without a reservation somewhere! 

In the off season (after Easter until mid December), hotels usually have vacancies and rates are about 1/3 less than the winter season. However, it is best to have hotel reservations before you arrive - see your travel agent, or contact the U.S. and British Virgin Island tourist boards for information and a hotel list. 

Hurricane Season is from mid-summer to early November, but the most active storm months are generally August and September.  Many people go during that time, but should be prepared to quickly leave the islands if a hurricane threatens. 
 

How much money should we take?
 
Currency in both the U.S. and British Virgins is U.S. dollars.  Most hotels and restaurants take major credit cards, but it is handy to have some small U.S. bills ($1, $5, $10, and $20s) for ferries, taxis, and out of the way places to eat or drink.  We usually take our credit cards and about $300 - Kenny carries half; I carry the other half.  Some resorts accept personal checks, so we take a few of those too. 
 
What is the policy for tipping?

The same as at home - 10 or 15% depending on service.  However, some resorts automatically add a service charge to their rates.  In this case, you have no obligation to tip extra. 

Some people do tip individual staff members who do something extra, and sports instructors. 

If you scuba dive or do a day trip, it's always appropriate to tip the divemasters or tour leaders. 
 

What about car rentals & driving?

One of the best ways to see Tortola and Virgin Gorda is to either hire a driver for a few hours or the day, or rent a car and drive yourself.  Generally, rental cars are over $40 a day (rather expensive) and you must also purchase a BVI "driving permit" for $10, but you have the freedom to wander wherever you want to go to see and hike, snorkel, or explore without the limitations of a "tour". 

In the BVI - DRIVE ON THE LEFT!  

This is just opposite of driving in the U.S. and takes a little getting used to.  The first time we ever drove in a British island, my hubby pulled out on the road and was fiddling around with the windshield wipers.  As expected, he was on the right/wrong side of the road and I looked up and saw a huge dump truck coming right at us!  Fortunately, the rental car had a big sign plastered to the dash that said "DRIVE LEFT" and I blurted out "GO LEFT!".  After that little incident, he stayed on the left side of the road. 

Traffic is not too heavy in the BVIs, so it's a good place to learn to drive "opposite" if you are from the states or a country that drives "right".  However, both islands have lots of hair-pin turns, roller-coaster roads, and steep mountains.  When on steep inclines, downshift - use the same gear going up as well as going down... don't ride your brakes going down steep inclines, use lower gear and let the engine do the work of slowing down. 
 

Should we take our own snorkels, masks, & flippers?
How cold is the water?

If you plan to do a lot of snorkeling, then you should purchase a snorkel and mask at home before you leave on your trip rather than renting them in the islands.  Some resorts furnish them, however, it's always best to have your own. 

Masks and faces come in all shapes and sizes so the secret to good snorkeling is to have a mask that fits your face perfectly!  And please don't buy one of the cheapo snorkeling kits!  Go to a dive shop and have them help you find a mask that fits.  Which kind of snorkel is best?  Any brand will do, however, I like the kind that keep the water from washing down the top if we hit a wave.  Hubby uses a plain, cheap snorkel and is perfectly happy. 

Fins (flippers) are a matter of individual preference.  My husband doesn't use fins to snorkel; I do.  If you are staying at a resort that furnishes fins, then to save weight and space in your suitcase, use the resort ones.  However, you might want to buy some "fin socks" at a dive shop that will keep fins from rubbing your feet the wrong way.  Or pack a couple pairs of cheap nylon socks to wear with swim fins.

I prefer fins with back straps that must be worn with scuba booties.  Couple of reasons that this is a good idea... the booties will fit your foot, and also provide excellent protection from sharp coral or shell when walking out in the water to start snorkeling.  My fins are the shortest ones I could find so that they will fit in my duffle carry-on bag. 

Dive/Snorkeling suits: Water temperature can vary from 76 degrees in January/February to 84-86 degrees in August/September.  People from "up North" probably think 76 degrees is "bathtub" water, folks from hot areas like us in Texas, think that's freezing cold! 

Kenny and I visit the islands in April and November so water temperature is usually above 80.  We both have lightweight (and cheap) lycra body suits that we snorkel in - mainly for sun protection (and it helps protect if we scrape the coral too). Without those, it's too easy to get out there floating around for an hour or so and forget that the strong tropical sun is slowly toasting our backsides while our frontside faces all those great fish and reefs passing underneath.  Some folks snorkel in T-shirts, but that gives no protection to legs, however, I've seen people wearing exercise tights with T-shirts and those seem to work fine.  We have heavy weight dive suits for scuba, but never need those for snorkeling. 
 

What about sun protection and bugs?
  
We live in South Texas where people just naturally slather on suntan lotion and plop on a hat if they plan to be outside for very long.  The Caribbean sun is even hotter, so it's VERY important to take hats and lotion along and USE THEM.  There's nothing worse than thinking you are going to get a suntan faster if you don't use suntan lotion - all you will get is a very bad burn the first day or two and arrive home with skin peeling instead of sporting a nice tan. 

South Texas also has bugs of every sort and kind including clouds of mosquitos after any rain, so we seldom notice "bugs" in the Caribbean and actually, over the years we've found few mosquitos in the islands.  But, take along some spray just in case you need it. 

Sand fleas and mosquitos are usually worse at dusk when the sun is going down, so be aware and stay off the beach during that time if they appear during your vacation. 
 

How do we get there?
  
This is one of my most often asked questions!  I'm amazed at the amount of travel agents (even) who don't have a clue as to how to get their clients to the Virgin Islands. 

Well, it can be complicated - I've outlined some suggestions below - if traveling from Europe, then look into flying to St. Martin or Antigua and commuting to EIS on Liat or Caribbean Star airlines. 

Arrival from North America: 

BVI: only small commuter airplanes land at Beef Island Airport (linked to Tortola) and the airport code is EIS.  The easiest, most direct route is to fly to San Juan, Puerto Rico (SJU), then take an American Airlines Eagle or Continental Airlines commuter, OR one of the small regional airlines to Beef Island. 

If you are going to Virgin Gorda (VIJ), then you will be taking a 30 minute ferry ride from Beef Island.  Large resorts can arrange a transfer; if you are staying at a villa or inn, then make sure the public ferries are still running at the time you plan to arrive or you will need to overnight on Tortola. 

A few regional commuters fly from San Juan and St. Thomas to Virgin Gorda. 

USVI: St. Thomas is a 2 hour ferry ride from the BVI and large airlines land at STT, however, the public ferries run only during the day, not in the evening, SO you must land on St. Thomas by no later than 2 pm to have time to taxi down to the ferry docks and catch one to the BVI.  We did this ONCE and it was such an ordeal, we decided it just wasn't worth the extra hassle, plus if our plane had been late arriving into St. Thomas, we would have had to spend the night in St. Thomas. 

So, if you must fly into St. Thomas (for better fares or perhaps all the flights are booked to EIS), then plan to spend the first night or two there.  Then you can leisurely take a ferry over to the BVI during the day. 

Departure to North America: 

You can depart from EIS, or, if your schedule allows an afternoon departure, then you can take an early morning ferry from the BVI to St. Thomas and fly home from there. 

NOTE, NOTE, NOTE: Public ferry schedules are limited on weekends, so if you must arrive or depart on the weekend, be sure the schedule matches your airline arrival or departure times. 

Confused?  The bottom line is try to fly into Beef Island airport or Virgin Gorda's airstrip rather than into St. Thomas. 

Better yet: Use my travel agent for complete vacation reservations - see below: 
 

Do you make all your own reservations?
  
I am a firm believer in using a good travel agent who specializes in the Caribbean!   

He can coordinate our flights with the resort destination, trouble shoot any airline schedule changes (and American Airlines constantly changes schedules), and be sure the resort has the dates available that we want.  He does the entire trip, all the reservations including hotel bookings. 

Here's our Travel Agent (for the last 20 years!) 

    Olaf Carlson 
    Olson Travel and Nautical Charters 
    401 U.S. Highway 181 
    Portland Texas 78374 
    361-643-4555 
    FAX 361-643-6975 
    800-525-8090
He does ONLY complete vacation planning, not just the airline reservations.  Mr. Carlson also specializes in crewed yacht charters, so if you want to do a "land and sea" vacation, he'll put that together for you too. 

Visit his website at Olson Travel and Nautical Charters 
  
Great guy, and yes he's Swedish, but has been an American for years and traveled all over the world.   We wouldn't go anywhere without him making all our reservations!  Tell him ScubaMom sent you. 
 

Tourist Board Information
 
Those traveling to the BVI should contact the BVI Tourist Board at 370 Lexington Ave. N.Y., NY 10017 or call (800) 835-8530 or (800) 232-7770 for an information packet. The comprehensive BVI WELCOME Tourist Guide (which includes ferry schedules and everything else you ever needed to know about the BVIs, including restaurants and places to stay) is published 6 times a year - an annual subscription by airmail delivery is available by sending $25 for U.S. addresses and $37 elsewhere in U.S. funds by check or money order to Island Publishing Services, P.O.Box 133, Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands, or can be ordered by phone and credit card at (809) 494-2413 or fax (809) 494-6589. 
 
The weekly St. Thomas information guide called "ST. THOMAS THIS WEEK" can be ordered by sending $3 in U.S. Funds to Box 11199, St. Thomas, VI, 00801-4199. 
 
For a "complete" guide to the U.S. and British Virgin Islands, purchase a copy of "The Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands" which has all kinds of information for vacationers (not just cruisers) - hotels, restaurants, maps, services, charters, snorkeling and diving information, phone numbers, and lots of great photos. Visit your local bookstore, or call 1-800-330-9542 or 1-813-733-5322 to order your own copy for $17.95 plus postage. It's one of the best references to the Virgin Islands available. 
 
Most importantly of all ... visit all the Virgins and have a great time! 
 
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