Tourist Tips and Inter-Island Traveling
in the British Virgin Islands and U.S. Virgin Islands.
 
View of Virgin Islands from Ferry Boat
 
By Lynn McKamey (ScubaMom)
 
Some of you may have read my travel reviews of the British Virgins; several have asked for more details about traveling back and forth to the nearby U.S. Virgins. This article is written primarily to give you ideas about the vast extent of the inter-island ferry system, and how easy it is to travel around the "Virgins". 

Yes, I know, lots of people like to stay at one place, unwinding on the same beach for a week or two, but adventurous vacationers may enjoy taking a day trip to the "other islands" or staying a few days in both the U.S. and British Virgins. Scuba divers, in particular, will find dive sites in the BVI far more interesting and extensive than the U.S. Virgins, but for some reason or another (such as shopping in St. Thomas, or visiting the incredible beaches of St. John) want to see the U.S. Virgins too. So, I have written this WITH some ferry schedules, but don't hold me to the times and days listed which can vary depending on the month, the season and/or the day of the week. Just use it for some ideas of planning ahead and contact the ferry companies for current information. 
 
Geographically, the British Virgin Islands (BVI) and two of the U.S. Virgin Islands (USVI) St. Thomas and St. John, form one continuous chain of islands and are linked by well established ferry systems and commuter flights. With a little prior planning, tourists can visit and spend some time in both the U.S. and British Virgins, or take a day trip from one to the other. Some vacationers fly in and out of the large St. Thomas airport and use the ferry systems to reach a British Virgin Island hotel or resort. Others fly into the small Beef Island BVI airport, stay a few days, use a ferry to transfer to the U.S. Virgins, and fly home from St. Thomas. The possibilities are endless! Don't forget to take your passport when you travel from one set of Virgins to the other since you are transferring from one "country" to another (U.S.citizens can use a certified birth certificate and a photo I.D.). 

Boats and ferry systems are a way of life in the Virgins. Residents and vacationers in St. Thomas "escape" to the quiet BVI for a day or two away from the gobs of cruise ships and hordes of shoppers in Charlotte Amalie; British Virgin Island residents and vacationers go to St. Thomas for a little excitement and to shop for all those things NOT available in the BVI. Because of the narrow roads, mountainous terrain of Virgin Gorda and Tortola, and traffic jams of St. Thomas, it is sometimes faster to go by boat to the other side of the island, than by car or taxi! And it is often easier to take a ferry between islands than a commuter flight which usually costs twice as much as a ferry ride. 
 
Most of the public ferries are large boats, air conditioned, very seaworthy, and have a minimum amount of rock and roll since they stay within waters protected by the islands.  I am subject to mal de mer, but have never been woozy on the ferries. Some are very fast, and can make the trip between Road Town, Tortola and Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas in little more than one hour.  The ride is quite a treat, a lovely scenic cruise amongst the beautiful Virgin Islands... don't forget your camera! 
 
Ferries dock in downtown Charlotte Amalie, Red Hook on the east side of St. Thomas, Cruz Bay on the west side of St. John, West End and Road Town in Tortola, and Spanish Town in Virgin Gorda. Smaller ferries provide links to the North Sound and Peter Island of the BVI.  Several private ferries run trips to Anegada. 

 
Virgin Islands map with ferry routes
 
Generally, the public ferry schedules are as follows: (Subject to change; for current information, please check schedules on arrival or by calling the ferry services listed in this article.)  
 
Native Son Ferry Website
 Smith's Ferry Website
 
BETWEEN Tortola's Road Town (RT) & West End (WE) and Charlotte Amalie, St.Thomas (ST): Smith's Ferry Services and Native Son Ferries (70-90 minute trip)  
    Monday-Friday:  
    Depart RT 6:15am; WE 7:00 am. & 10:00 am. & 3:00 pm. to St. Thomas  
    Depart ST 8:10 am., 12:30 am., 4:30 pm. to Tortola  
      
    Saturday : 
    Depart RT 6:15 am., 8:45 am., 2 am.; WE 7:00 am., 10:00 am., 2:30 am. to ST  
    Depart ST 8:30 am., 12:00 noon, 4:30 pm. to Tortola  
      
    Sunday:  
    Depart WE 9:15 am. & 4:00 pm.; RT 3:30 pm. for ST  
    Depart ST 8:00 am. & 11:00 am. & 3:00 pm. to Tortola  
      
    Daily West End (WE)  
    Tortola to St. John (SJ) and Red Hook (RH), St. Thomas  
    Depart WE 6:39 am, 8:20 am., 12:20 pm., 4:00 pm.  
    Depart RH 7:50, 11:30 am., 3:20 pm., 5:30 pm.
Speedy's Ferry Website

BETWEEN Virgin Gorda (VG) BVI and Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas (ST): Speedy's Ferries (trip: 2 hours)  

    Tuesday and Thursday:  
    Depart VG 6:30 am, 2:45 pm Depart RT 7:15 am, 3:25 pm  
    Depart ST 8:45 am, 5:00 pm  

    Saturday: 
    Depart VG 8:30 am - RT 9:15 am  
    Depart ST 3:30 pm.

BETWEEN Virgin Gorda (VG) and Road Town, Tortola (RT): Speedy's Ferries, Smith's Ferries (Trip: 30 minutes)  
    Monday-Saturday:  
    Depart RT 7:00, 9:00 am., 12:00 noon, 1:30 pm., 4:30 pm.  
    Depart VG 8:00 am., (10:00 am Mon, Wed, Fri), 11:30 pm., 3:30 pm.  

    Sunday:  
    Depart RT 8:50 am, 12:30 pm., 4:15pm, 5:15 pm.  
    Depart VG 8:00 am, 10:15am, 3 pm, 4:30 pm.

BETWEEN Beef Island airport dock, Tortola (BI) and North Sound of Virgin Gorda (BI) North Sound Express - Daily (40 minutes):  
    Departs BI 6:15 am., 10:30 am., 3:30 pm, 5:30 pm  
    Departs NS 7:10, 12:00 noon, 4:15 pm.
Peter Island Website
  
BETWEEN Peter Island, BVI and Tortola on the east side of Road Town (this is not the main Road Town ferry dock) Peter Island Ferry - Daily (Trip takes 15 minutes):  
    Departs RT 7 am, 8:30 am, 10 am, 2 pm., 3:30 pm, 5:30 pm, 6:30 pm, 10:30  
    Departs PI 8 am, 9 am., 12 noon, 2:30 pm, 4:30 pm, 6 pm., 10 pm., 11 pm
BETWEEN Virgin Gorda & Anegada: 
Dive BVI makes day trips several times a week for day trips in their fast power catamaran the "Sea Lion"; call them to check days and times. 
Dive BVI power catamaran Sea Lion
 
Please note that there are lots of small ferries which run between Charlotte Amalie and Red Hook, St. Thomas and which also travel between ST. Thomas and St. John. They are not listed since ferries are numerous and schedules vary. 

Now, a couple of pitfalls... During the week, most of the ferries depart and arrive at West End, Tortola. To go from West End to Road Town to catch the ferry to Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda OR from West End to the Beef Island ferry dock to catch the North Sound Express, you will need to take a taxi or rent a car to navigate the hairpin turns on narrow roads. The trip takes about 40 minutes, but the views are really spectacular! The same thing happens if you want to go from Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda to the North Sound - another rolly-coaster taxi or rental ride which will take about 30 minutes (but the views are fabulous on this trip too!) 

For current information about ferry schedules between the U.S. and British Virgin Islands, contact: 

  • Native Son, Inc. (284) 495-4617 in Tortola  (284) 774-8685 in St. Thomas or 775-3111 Red Hook FAX: (809) 779-2811
  • Smith's Ferry Services: (284) 494-2355 or 495-4495 in BVI (284) 775-7292 in St. Thomas
  • Speedy's (also has car rentals, safari tours, taxis, and boat charters) (284) 495-5240 or 495-5235 in Virgin Gorda
  • North Sound Express: (284) 495-2271 Beef Island airport
  • Peter Island: (284) 494-2561 BVI
  • Dive BVI: (284) 495-5513 in Virgin Gorda 

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"Virgin Islands" Travel Tips: 

If you plan to vacation in both the British and U.S. Virgins and to "shop 'til you drop" in Charlotte Amalie, I suggest that you depart from the U.S. Virgins. U.S. residents can each bring home $1,200 worth of duty-free merchandise, including a gallon of alcoholic beverages per adult if purchased in the U.S. Virgins; however, U.S. tourists can only bring $600 duty-free per person from the British Virgin Islands. Besides, you won't have to lug all that stuff back to the BVI! Another advantage is that you will go through U.S. customs at the St. Thomas airport BEFORE departure, instead of when making connections through San Juan. [For those of you new to this game, if you depart from the Beef Island airport in the British Virgins, you will fly to San Juan, have to retrieve all your luggage, drag it through customs, put it back on the airline carrousel, and go to the gate... allow at least an hour for this process.] If you don't plan to do a lot of shopping in St. Thomas, then it really doesn't matter (duty wise) which country you depart from. 

Check airline schedules for flying in and out of St. Thomas (STT) as opposed to Beef Island, BVI (EIS) or Virgin Gorda (VIJ). Fares are usually much cheaper and connections easier if you use St. Thomas (STT). Beef Island is serviced by American Airline Eagles and several commuter airlines, which are often booked up way in advance. Virgin Gorda is served from San Juan only by commuter flights, mostly unreliable at this time and subject to going out of business at any time without notice! To fly into St. Thomas and transfer by ferry to West End or Road Town, Tortola on the same day, you must arrive at the Charlotte Amalie downtown ferry docks no later than mid-afternoon! Leaving the BVI and taking a ferry to Charlotte Amalie to catch a flight home on the same day is usually easy... leave on a BVI morning ferry and take an afternoon flight from St. Thomas - you'll even have time to do a little shopping since the docks are just a few blocks from the main shopping attractions and the St. Thomas airport is only a 15 minute ride away. 

The Native Son ferry system will allow you to leave your luggage at their dock in downtown Charlotte Amalie if you want to spend a few hours shopping before leaving for the airport. I suspect that Smiths and Speedy's will too. 

You should arrive at the ferry docks about 15-20 minutes before departure. The ferries are seldom full or sold out, but this will allow time to purchase your ticket and become settled on-board. Fares generally run about $20-22 for one way between the U.S. and British Virgins. Purchase the tickets from the small ferry stands at the dock, NOT your taxi driver who often adds $2 or $3 to the cost of the ticket. 

Taxis are abundant at the ferry docks, so don't worry about being "stranded" once you step off the boat. 

Other tips: 
 
Currency in both the U.S. and British Virgins is U.S. dollars. Most hotels and restaurants take major credit cards, but it is handy to have some small U.S. bills ($1, $5, $10, and $20s) for ferries, taxis, and out of the way places to eat or drink. 
 
Most importantly of all ... visit all the Virgins and have a great time! 
 

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